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"A river sings a holy song conveying the mysterious truth that we are a river, and if we are ignorant of this natural law, we are lost." - From The Re-Enchantment of Everyday Life |
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Origins and Geology Among the most outstanding features
of the upper Arkansas Valley are the glacial characteristics of
the topography throughout the area. Glacial cirques and U-shaped
valleys can be seen in connection with many tributary streams and
side canyons in the valley. Rocky remnants of giant moraines are
evident from Buena Vista to Salida making the upper Arkansas different
than other major rivers of the region.
History The Arkansas River is one of the most historically and economically important rivers in the United States. Its origins date back to the Pliocene epoch. The first recorded crossing of the Arkansas River at the ford of the later Taos or Trappers Trail was made by the Spaniard Ulibarri in 1706. Ulibarri was in command of a force comprising twenty soldiers, twelve settlers and one hundred Indian allies, all marching from Santa Fe to rescue a band of enslaved Picuris from the Cuartelejo Apaches of present eastern Colorado. He name the Arkansas the Napestle for its muddy color. The Arkansas River, named for the Arkansas Indians of Oklahoma and Kansas through which the river flows, provided one of the best natural highways into Colorado. The first white man to explore the upper reaches of the river was probably Zebulon Pike in 1806 when he led an expedition west of Pike's Peak. On that same trip he camped for Christmas next to the Arkansas River at Squaw Creek about four miles north of Poncha Springs where a historical marker is now located. He was followed by Gen John C. Fremont who also explored the upper Arkansas. From 1820 to 1846, the River formed the international boundary between the United States and Mexico. It was therefore the natural route for traders and trappers. It was Native Americans hunted along its length and early explorers followed
it westward. Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area Stretching for 148 miles from Leadville through Chaffee and Fremont Counties to the Pueblo Reservoir, the Arkansas Headwaters Recreation Area is a unique park managed by both the Colorado Division of Parks and the U.S. Bureau of Land Management. Within the park are numerous recreation sites--some improved and some not. Since this is a new park, it remains a work in progress with projects such as its Watchable Wildlife area at Five Points, in Fremont County in the making. The Park system includes sites in Fremont County at Pinnacle Rock, Five Points and lone Pine as well as sites in Chaffee County including Railroad Bridge, north of Buena Vista; Fisherman's Bridge and Ruby Mountain, near Nathrop; Hecla Junction between nathrop and Salida: and Rincon, southeast of Salida. BACK TO TOP |
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"
Society speaks and all men listen, mountains speak and wise men
listen. "
- John Muir |
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The legendary Rocky Mountains are perhaps the most prominent asset of the state of Colorado and of Chaffee County. Few geographic formations boast the majesty and rugged splendor of these peaks, and equally few have had such a profound influence on the peoples of the surrounding regions. |
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About 70 million years ago, the shallow inland sea retreated from Colorado for the last time. The cause of the retreat was a tremendous uplift, the Laramide Orogeny, of the entire Rocky Mountain chain. A very important consequence of this orogeny was the deposition of minerals in Colorado. During the Quartenary Period that followed a vast cooling took place and as a result immense mountain glaciers were formed. These glaciers began near the crest of the mountains and slowly ground their ways down to the valleys.In their paths they left steepened slopes, carved cirques and deposited great masses of rock at their terminus. The effects of these glaciers can readily be seen in the glacier carved cirques of the Sawatch Range. Sometimes referred to as "the
backbone of the Continent", the Sawatch
Range towers above the Arkansas valley below.The early surveyor
Hayden called the range one of the grandest of eruptive masses on
the continent. Fifteen fourteeners rise in the Sawatch, including
the three highest peaks of the Rockies, more than any other range
in the contiguous 48 states. The Range averages about 20 miles in
width and stretches for 90 miles. The Continental Divide is an integral
part of this portion of the Rocky Mountains. More impressive for
their massiveness and altitude than their ruggedness-----The name
"sawatch" comes from
an Indian word meaning " blue earth." Both the Mosquito Range and the
Sawatch Range are a part of the Laramide Uplift. Sedimentary rocks
of the Mosquito Range dip east and those of the Sawatch, dip west.
Under stream deposits near the town of Granite is Precambrian granite
that is 1750 million years old. Mount
of the Holy Cross Mount
Massive Mount
Elbert La
Plata Peak Mount
Oxford Huron
Peak Mount
Columbia Mount
Yale Mount
Princeton Mount
Antero Early prospectors in the area looked at Mt. Antero to be a source of silver--but none was found and no claim was staked. What was missed was that the peak was a rich source of gemstones and in 1884, Nathaniel Wanemaker discovered a number of blue aquamarines near the peak. Since that time, Mt. Antero has proved an extraordinary source of aquamarines, topaz and clear and smoky quartz crystals. Some of the clear crystals have been huge and common smoky quartz crystals have weighed as much as fifty pounds. Another highly prized mineral found on Mt. Antero is beryllium, a lightweight, corrosion-resistant, rigid, steel-gray metal. It is valued as an aerospace structural material, as a moderator and reflector in nuclear reactors, and in a copper alloy used for springs, electrical contacts, and non-sparking tools. Mount
Shavano Tabeguache
Mountain |
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Wildlife
Grab your camera, binoculars, and spotting scopes to watch wildlife in their natural setting.
Colorado's 960 species of wildlife make an extraordinary contribution to the quality of life we all enjoy in this state and in Chaffee County! The abundance of wildlife provides a myriad of opportunities for various outdoor activities.
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Constraints That Exist Where Wildlife is Present
Coexistence with wildlife is an enjoyable part of living in the mountainous
environment of Colorado. The key to coexistence is to respect the wildness
of wildlife. As more houses are built in the mountainous areas and in
the foothills, human and domestic animal encounters with wildlife will
increase. Elk, deer, mountain lion, bear, fox, turkey, beaver, porcupine,
coyote, birds, and other animals are found in this environment.
There are 110 watchable
wildlife viewing areas throughout the state, 25 of which are located
on BLM lands. The official Colorado "Wildlife Viewing Guide"
provides a detailed description of each area, including a map, type of
wildlife in the area, and time of year that is best for viewing. To order,
contact the Colorado Wildlife Heritage Foundation, Attn: Viewing Guide
P.O. Box 211512, Denver, CO 80221: or phone 303-291-7212
The following Colorado Division of Wildlife guidelines are provided to
assist the mountain dweller to better coexist with wildlife:
- 1. Be aware that mountain lions and bear are most active from dusk to dawn.
- 2. Keep your pet under control at all times. Roaming pets are easy prey for larger predators and more susceptible to injury and disease. Bring pets in at night or keep them in a kennel with a secure top. Feeding pets outside can attract mountain lions and bears. Store all garbage securely.
- 3. Closely supervise children whenever they play outdoors.
- 4. Planting non-native shrubs and plants that deer and elk often prefer to eat encourages wildlife to come onto your property. This can be a problem because predators follow prey. Note: Elk prefer tulips - but don't like daffodils.
- 5. Do not feed wildlife other than songbirds.
- 6. Place livestock in enclosed sheds or barns at night.
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Chaffee County Wildlife
The Valley winters provide an excellent opportunity for viewing wildlife.
Winter snows and cold usually drive game down to lower elevations where
there is more forage. For viewing elk, the best place to look is along
U.S. 285 between Poncha Springs and Centerville where alfalfa fields are
frequent grazing areas and in the Brown's Creek area southwest of Nathrop.In
addition, there is a large herd of elk often visible off County Rd. 306
north of Buena Vista. Another favorite grazing spot is along U.S. 50 from
just below CR 226 to Garfield.The best time to view elk is early morning
or dusk.
Big Horn sheep are
often visible in Chaffee and Fremont counties. The best place to view
them is at Chalk Creek, five or six miles west of US 285 on CR 162 west
of Nathrop near Love Ranch where there is a feeding station. Above the
baiting grounds you can often see rocky mountain goats. The goats frequent
higher, steeper elevations and can be approached up to a moderate distance
before being scared off. Big Horn sheep are also often visible on the
hillsides (and sometimes in the road) in Big Horn Sheep Canyon between
Salida and Parkdale and they have been known to be seen atop Tenderfoot
Mountain.
If you plan a hike up Mt. Shavano,
Mt. Tabeguache or Mt. Antero, you may catch a lucky siting of a mountain
goat. These magnificent animals were first brought into the Upper Arkansas
Valley by the Salida Chapter of the International Order of Rocky Mountain
Goats founded in 1966. The organization encourages the preservation of
the Rocky Mountain goat herd in the Collegiate Peaks area. The work of
this organization has resulted in over 400 of the mountain goats living
in the area around Mt. Princeton. The goats may also be seen on the cliffs
above Cottonwood Lake.
Mule deer and antelope are other large animals that are highly visible. Mule deer can be seen in many locations particularly in the early mornings or late evenings.(You can almost always find some on the golf course in Salida.) Antelope can be observed four or five miles over Poncha Pass in the open flats and on the mesa north of Mesa Antero. They may also be seen on the northeast side of CO 291.
Many other species may be observed at
various times. Some, like bobcats and mountain lions, are secretive animals
and sightings are rare. It is not unusual to spot a black bear in late
summer to early fall before hibernation when bears are stocking up for
a long winter's sleep.Though encounters are minimal, campgrounds are a
likely spot to see them and if you are a camper, make sure you take necessary
precautions to prevent them from visiting. Coyotes abound but are elusive
animals so if you see one, look quickly before he is gone.
Photographing wildlife is an exciting and challenging experience. It is
recommended that you use a 400 or faster speed film to capture them.
Remember, when viewing wildlife to be
cognizant of watchable wildlife guidelines.
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Birding is a simple past time that requires little special equipment. Field guides and binoculars combined with a bit of patience are all that one needs to spend hours of enjoyment studying the local bird species. But just what types of birds would you expect to see at 7,000 feet +? Amateur ornithologists might be surprised at the variety of birds present in the Upper Arkansas Valley. Though there may be fewer resident species of birds in the Valley than in other places, it is a natural north-south migration path for various species.The valley's migration pathway gives one the opportunity to watch birds that migrate to higher elevations such as Towhees, grosbeaks, tanagers, hummingbirds, wrens, creepers and nuthatches.
Summer residents of the valley include: Western and pied-billed grebes, double-crested cormorants, great blue heron, blue-winged and cinnamon teals, wood duck, Canada goose, mallard, common merganser and redhead, red-tailed hawk, golden eagle, American kestrel, ringnecked pheasant, Virginia rail, sora and American coot, killdeer, spotted sandpiper, California gulls, ringbilled gull, rock dove, mourning dove, yellow-billed cuckoo, common screech owl, great horned owl, burrowing owl, common nighthawk, white-throated swift and the broad-tailed hummingbird, rufous hummingbird, belted kingfisher, common flicker, downy woodpecker, Eastern and Western kingbirds, Western wood peewee, horned lark, tree, barn and cliff swallows, Steller's, blue and pinon jays, black-billed magpie, American crow and black capped and mountain chickadees, house wren, american dipper, rock wren, gray catbird, American robin, Swainson's thrush, European starling, red-eyed vireo, warbling vireo, virginia's warbler, yellow warbler, yellow-ruped warbler, common yellowthroat,yellow-breasted chat, American redstart, house sparrow, Western meadowlark, yellow-headed blackbird, red-winged blackbird, Northern oriole, Brewer's blackbird, common grackle and brown-headed cowbird, blue grosbeak, indigo buting, lazuli bunting, Cassins and house finches, American goldfinch, lesser goldfinch, rufous-sided towhee, lark sparrow, chipping sparrows and song sparrows.
A complete Upper
Arkansas Valley bird checklist will be available at the Heart of the Rockies
Chamber of Commerce information center. The checklist, provided by the
Heart of the Rockies Audubon, will include a list of previously sighted
birds with notations on residence and migratory status.This local chapter
of the National Audubon Society encompasses a large geographic area which
includes Leadville and Texas Creek in the south. A good description of
many species of birds mentioned above can be found on the Colorado
Guide.
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